Where to Stay and What to Do in Montmartre, Paris, in 2024 + Maps
Hugo Kennedy
If you were an artist in the late nineteenth century in Europe, there is one place to go. Montmartre, Paris. Van Gogh, Monet, Picasso, and Renoir have all graced its streets and inspired generations of artists to come to the neighborhood. Nowadays, Montmartre is definitely on the tourist trail! Visitors come to see its beautiful streets, famous cabarets, and views overlooking Paris. I have lived and worked as a tour guide in Paris for six years, and my neighborhood guide for Montmartre will give you an intro to this ever-charming part of the city.
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Montmartre sits on the northern end of Paris. The hill of Montmartre is covered by the eighteenth district and sits right on the edge of the ring road. Originally it was a small village outside of the old city wall and only really start growing from the 1850s onwards. Montmartre became the home for many of the poor who could not afford to live in the stylish and modern boulevards built by Baron Haussmann. It had cheap rent and cheap living, one of the reasons it became a haunt for the impressionist painters from around the 1860s onwards.
Modern Montmartre is a mix of different things. Heavily gentrified since the Second World War it is home to some of the more expensive houses in the city, especially nearer to the top of the hill. However, traditionally speaking, Paris in the North and East is quite a lot poorer than the South and the West of the city. Montmartre is bounded by some very traditionally working-class neighborhoods.
These parts of the city (like a lot of tough parts of Western cities) are gentrifying, but visitors to the neighborhood shouldn’t be surprised by this upon alighting from the hill. As most people arrive in Montmartre via the south, you will pass the Boulevard Clichy, the current red-light district of the city. It is safe, but just remember you are visiting a big city, and it is always smart to know where you are going ahead of time.
Visitors to Montmartre will find one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the city, with some of the best restaurants and bars. A genuine neighborhood that is a haunt of celebrities, artists, fashionistas, and even lowly blog writers like myself.
Top Things to See in Montmartre, Paris: Well-Known and Not.
1. Artistic Legacy of Montmartre
Each neighborhood of Paris has something different about them. Montmartre would be described as the artist’s quarter of the city. This stems from the three generations of artists who made it their home during the Belle Époque. The Impressionists were the first to arrive in the neighborhood, attracted by its bohemian lifestyle and affordable prices (as well as its beauty. They were followed by the Post-Impressionists (our friends Paul Gauguin and Vincent Van Gogh). And the final group would be the modernists Picasso, Modigliani, and Braque.
While the hill of Montmartre today may be too expensive for your average struggling artist, it still possesses some fine art galleries and exhibition spaces. The most famous is the Place du Tertre, which is the artist square just behind the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. The artists exhibiting here have to have a license and are real painters (as opposed to selling prints), and as such, maintain a strong legacy dating back to the Belle Époque. This is more than can be said for the restaurants on this square, which are all tourist traps. Avoid eating there.
Apart from the current crop of street artists, you can go and find the homes of the people who made this neighborhood famous. The house of Van Gogh (only from the outside as it is private), the Bateau Lavoir (home to Braque and Picasso), and the garden of Renoir are all worthy of a visit. For art and history lovers, a guided tour is always helpful to really get a sense of what made this place special during the Belle Époque.
2. Admire the Stunning View From the Sacré-Coeur
Right at the top of the hill lies the Minor Basilica of the Sacré-Coeur. It sits on the highest natural point in Paris. Built after the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 and dedicated to the sacred heart of Jesus, it dominates the city. It has not been without controversy, being built on the site of the defeat of the Communard rebellion of 1871 (join a tour to learn more!). Some Parisians call it the cupcake or the mushroom because of its rather strange design. However, for me, it is one of the more impressive structures and settings for a church in Europe. The view is absolutely spectacular, taking in all of central Paris. It is well worth the climb, and for those less able for the steps, there is a funicular that can bring you up the hill.
Montmartre is home to some nice museums to visit on your trip. The Musée de Montmartre is an excellent little museum. Housed in a building, one part of which is where Auguste Renoir lived when he was painting in the streets of Montmartre. Great exhibitions and a quaint and quiet place to visit. Very much recommended.
For those who are fans of Salvador Dalí, then a visit to his museum just beside the Place du Tertre is a great option. It has over 300 original artworks by the great surrealist painter who made Montmartre his home in the late 1920s. Really interesting rolling exhibits and a nice stop for sure.
There are also many smaller galleries and museum spaces to be found on Montmartre’s streets. Montmartre definitely rewards a little aimless wandering to find them! Worth stopping into Saint Pierre de Montmartre, one of the oldest churches in the city, now dominated by the basilica next door. It is a calm oasis in a busy neighborhood.
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It is in the backstreets of Montmartre that you will find some of the most beautiful streets in the city. If you start a walk at the house of Van Gogh on the Rue Lepic and follow this winding road up, you can find some excellent spots. You will find the windmills of the Moulin de la Galette, where Renoir painted one of his most famous paintings, now exhibited in the Musée D’Orsay.
Keep going up, and you can find yourself at the Place Dalida, named after one of the most famous French singers, disco queen Dalida. Her bust sits facing probably one of the most beautiful spots in the whole city in the Rue de l’Abreuvoir. At the top of which sits La Maison Rose, a good cafe and restaurant in a very pretty spot.
Just around the corner, you can find the vineyard of Montmartre, making wine on the hill since 1933, the sales for which go to a charity dedicated to preserving the artistic legacy of the neighborhood. By the way, one of the best views of the Sacré-Coeur Basilica is from a park called Parc Marcel-Bleustein-Blanchet just behind the church. Go and have a look, and don’t say I never did you any favors!
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Where to Stay in Montmartre, Paris
Maison Souquet | Hôtel Monsieur Aristide | Apartment Beside the Basilica | Hôtel des Arts Montmartre | Le Logis de Montmartre
€€€€+ | Right Beside Moulin Rouge | 5 – Star | Unique Decor
This boutique hotel is situated right beside the Moulin Rouge, built in a self-described “former house of pleasures”. Take from that what you will. What it does offer is 5-star accommodation with a really fantastic Belle Époque decor. It is luxurious, probably a little over the top, but for a place to stay in Montmartre to get you in the spirit of the neighborhood and the time which made it most famous, then I can think of little better. It is at the higher end of the price scale but a unique experience.
Eating wise in Montmartre, it is important to avoid tourist traps (as there are quite a few, especially at the top of the hill). Generally speaking, however, around the Rue des Abbesses, you will find a lot of quality eateries and places to hang out. This hotel is right in the center of these, and for me, this is one of the best locations to stay when in Montmartre. In a quieter street right off a buzzing restaurant street, this is a great option. Insider tip, around the corner is a place called Café Bar, which is a glimpse into old Montmartre, a bit rough around the edges but genuine! Apparently where Edith Piaf met her boxer boyfriend, Marcel Cerdan, so this is a cool spot. The hotel is great as well, and really a top location.
If you are looking for more of a self-catering experience and just looking for a great apartment in Montmartre, this one is excellent. It is right beside the Sacré Coeur, and its view is quite amazing. Many 5 Star hotels in the city would kill to have a vista of Paris like this. In itself, that is worth booking it, but it’s also clean, nice, and just a really good option. If you head down below this apartment towards the Rue Paul Albert, you can find some really nice and genuine restaurants. Overall a great option for people looking for an apartment rather than a hotel experience.
I like this hotel for its funky decor, including retro jukeboxes and wall paintings inspired by the famous residents of the neighborhood. It is also in a lovely location, about a minute’s walk from Van Gogh’s house and two minutes from the Moulin de la Galette. You also have the Rue des Trois Fréres just close by, which has some good restaurants. You are right in the heart of the village of Montmartre (the non-touristy Disney-fied end). It is also a quality 4-star hotel with modern amenities and friendly staff. It is a really good option for exploring the hill.
This is a great option for those on more of a budget traveling to Paris. They offer a couple of apartments in the same building, which would be good for a larger family or a group of friends traveling together. I think the location is really excellent here, just off the buzzing Rue Caulaincourt. It is just down the hill from the Sacré Coeur so you have easy access to the tourist center of the neighborhood and are right around the corner from a metro that can bring you into the middle of Paris. A really good option at a fair price in a nice part of the city, you could do much worse on your visit.
Montmartre is home to some of the most buzzing bars in the city, from classic dive bars with great wine and odd characters to upmarket bistros and Michelin restaurants. It is also really the home of the cabaret scene of Paris, home to the world-famous Moulin Rouge. Also where you will find lesser-known but more authentic places like Au Lapin Agile (the agile rabbit). Below I have listed some of my top restaurants to visit and some cabarets and wine bars to sink into that Belle Époque feeling that only Montmartre can provide.
OSE can be found just beside Abbesses metro station, a lovely part of the neighborhood. They have a changing menu and, generally speaking, have a set three-course menu which is written up on a chalk slate daily. An excellent option for those looking for a quality meal (lunch or dinner), at an affordable price. Unpretentious with quality ingredients and a dynamic team. As the French say, c’est top!
Le Pantruche sits just at the base of Montmartre in the fashionable 9th arrondissement. It serves up classic French meals in a cozy setting. If you are looking for a traditional French bistro with excellent quality, this is for you. Reasonably priced for the quality of the food and atmosphere that you receive and is just an excellent choice.
L’Arcane is situated just behind the Sacre Coeur, heading down to the quite buzzing but still local part of Montmartre around the Rue Caulaincourt. The restaurant offers tasting menus, which would be at the lower end for an establishment that possesses a Michelin star. An excellent wine list, a charming terrace with a great young team. L’Arcane is a great option for those looking for a fine dining experience in Montmartre.
While some may be amazed that I am not recommending the most famous cabaret in the world, the Moulin Rouge, as the best in the neighborhood, they shouldn’t be. Before the Moulin rose its red sails up, Au Lapin Agile was serving the impressionist painters and the locals of the neighborhood since 1860. Offering something much closer to the original cabaret experience. You sit down, have a glass of wine and sink into tales of old Montmartre interspersed with classic French chansons from the likes of Édith Piaf. A wonderful experience; of course, it does help if you speak French to understand what is happening. Regardless even if your French is not perfect, you will still have a rich and charming evening in one of the absolute institutions of Montmartre. Picasso, Utrillo, and Toulouse-Lautrec all painted here. Sit back and enjoy (it is four hours long).
Montmartre is famous for its nightlife, wine bars, and restaurants oftentimes in the summer, spill out onto the street. Especially on the streets around the Rue des Abbesses, there are quite a few nice options. Check out La Cave des Abbesses and Les Darons for a lovely experience. The nicest one for me is La Bascule, which every evening in the summertime has a group of young trendy-looking characters hanging outside enjoying a glass of wine. An excellent place with nice tapas and just a lovely atmosphere. A really good place to sample a bit of Montmartre conviviality!
Map Of Montmartre, Paris
Montmartre is the hill overlooking the city of Paris. It takes up the majority of the 18th arrondissement and is bounded by Batignolles to the west and Chateau Rouge to the East. You will find it at the northern end of the city, just above the city’s current red light district in Pigalle. Montmartre is served by Metro lines 2, 4, 12, and 13 and is easy to get to from the city center. The Sacré Coeur sits at the pinnacle of the hill while the Moulin Rouge sits at the bottom right beside Blanche metro on line 2.
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