There I was, packed into a sea of red Rossi fans, sunburned and shoulder-to-shoulder with sweat-soaked strangers. It was my first Calcio Storico match, and it was every bit as violent as I’d imagined. But as fists flew and the crowd roared, I couldn’t help but wonder—why does Florence still cling to this centuries-old spectacle? What really happens inside that sand-filled piazza? I talked to the people who play it, support it, and live for it. And what I found out might surprise you.
Table of Contents:
- Calcio Storico: What, When & Where?
- A Brief History of Calcio Storico
- Rules of Calcio Storico
- The Four Neighborhood Teams
- How to Watch Calcio Storico Live
- Florence in June: What Else to Do
👉 Pro Tip: Join a Florence Walking Tour before the match to understand the rivalries, rules, and Renaissance drama that fuel this epic showdown.
Calcio Storico in Florence: What, When & Where?
Every June, Florence turns Piazza Santa Croce into a sand-filled arena for this 500-year-old mashup of rugby, wrestling, football, and Renaissance flair. The tournament features four teams from Florence’s historic neighborhoods and unfolds over two semifinals and a final.
2025 Calcio Storico Dates:
June 14: Rossi (reds) vs Azzurri (blues)
June 15: Bianchi (whites) vs Verdi (greens)
June 24: Final on St John’s Day, Rossi Vs Azzurri
A Brief History of Calcio Storico in Florence
The first recorded Calcio Storico match dates to 1470, but its most famous game took place during the 1530 siege of Florence. As enemy troops looked on, locals held a game in Piazza Santa Croce—an audacious act of defiance.
The sport faded over time until 1930, when Fascist leaders revived it as a tribute to Florence’s past. That match, reenacting the 1530 game, laid the groundwork for today’s tournament.
Rules of Calcio Storico
“Rules” might be a generous word here. While there is a structure, Calcio Storico is known for its chaotic, bruising gameplay.
- Teams: Each team has 27 players and no substitutions. Once you’re injured or expelled, that’s it.
- What’s Allowed: Punching, wrestling, hand and foot passes.
- What’s Banned (Kind Of): Kicks to the head, hits from behind, or 2-on-1 attacks.
- Match Length: 50 minutes, with no breaks.
- The Field: Piazza Santa Croce is transformed into a 5,000 m2 sand-covered field.
- The Goal (Caccia): Score by throwing the ball into a net that runs the width of the opponent’s end of the field. Overshooting the goal gives the opposing team half a point.
Calcio Storico Positions
- 4 Goalkeepers (Datori Indietro)
- 3 Fullbacks (Datori Innanzi)
- 5 Halfbacks (Sconciatori)
- 15 Forwards (Innanzi o Corridori)
Calcio Storico Gameplay
The match starts when the ball is thrown into the center and a cannon fires. Fifteen players immediately launch into hand-to-hand combat, trying to neutralize their opponents so their teammates can push forward with the ball.
Players are allowed to punch, grapple, elbow, and tackle. However, headbutting, biting, hitting from behind, and ganging up on a single opponent are banned (though enforcement is inconsistent). If a player commits a serious foul, they can be expelled.
There are referees, linesmen, and a Judge Commissioner overseeing the match. There’s even an Aquaiolo whose job is to douse overheated fighters with water.
The Four Neighborhood Teams
Each of Florence’s four historical neighborhoods still rallies around its own squadra:
- Azzurri (Blue) – Santa Croce
- Rossi (Red) – Santa Maria Novella
- Bianchi (White) – Santo Spirito
- Verdi (Green) – San Giovanni
Every player (known as a calciante) must be Florentine by birth or have called the city home for at least a decade. By day, they might be teachers, chefs, office workers, or, as often happens, former rugby forwards and boxers. By night, they train for glory alone: no one earns a salary.
The Easter-Sunday Scoppio del Carro ritual decides the semi-final brackets. Festival officials draw four colored marble eggs from a velvet pouch, pairing the neighborhoods for June’s tournament; the two winners advance to the grand finale on 24 June, feast day of San Giovanni.
Once the whistle blows, telling the players apart becomes tricky. Fifty-four mud-spattered calcianti charge the pitch without numbered jerseys. Instead, each man wears a white patch on the right thigh of his historic breeches, painted with one of 27 unique symbols assigned to his team’s color and registered with officials before the match. (You can study every symbol in the accompanying photo.)
How to Watch Calcio Storico
Watching Calcio Storico live is tricky. Tickets are only sold in person in Florence, and they go within minutes. However, there are a few great options to stream, which I cover below.
Tickets For Calcio Storico
- Available from the ticket box office on Via delle Vecchie Carceri
- On sale: Tuesday before the semi-finals
- Prices range from €29 to €100
- Numbered seats are assigned but not always enforced, so arrive early for the best views
Can’t Get a Ticket?
Even if you can’t get a ticket to the match, it’s still well worth visiting Florence during this time. Here are other ways you can enjoy the event:
- Calcio Storico Live Stream:
- Watch the Parades: Each team marches through the city in Renaissance dress, starting at Piazza Santa Maria Novella and passing through the center to Santa Croce.
Florence in June: What Else to Do
Beyond the blood-pumping excitement of Calcio Storico, the city offers plenty of more relaxing (and less extreme) attractions in early summer. Here are a few ideas for what to do before and after the matches:
Celebrate San Giovanni (June 24)
- Fireworks: Head to Piazzale Michelangelo at night for the best views
- Religious Events: Services and processions throughout the day
Other Must-Do Activities in Florence
- Uffizi Gallery and Accademia: Beat the heat with some Michelangelo and Botticelli.
- Evening Food Tour: Savor a Florentine steak and sip wine from one of the city’s historic wine windows.
- Explore by Bike: Cruise through Florence’s bustling streets, past vineyards and olive groves, and tour a Tuscan farm.
- Day Trips: Explore Cinque Terre, Pisa, or the Chianti wine country.
Final Thoughts
Calcio Storico might just be the craziest sporting event you’ll ever see. And if you can plan a Florence trip for June, attending a match (or even just the parade) is a story you’ll be telling for years.
That said, you don’t have to be here in June to feel Florence’s history come alive. The city offers countless ways to step back in time or savor the moment. Whether it’s climbing the Duomo, sampling Chianti wines, or admiring Michelangelo’s masterpieces, we have a tour (and a tale) ready for you.
So, go ahead and enjoy the wild ride of Calcio Storico if you can – and let us handle the rest of your Florence adventure.
Not ready to book a tour? Check out our article on the Best Florence Tours to Take and Why.
Where To Stay in Florence
Florence has a small historical center packed with iconic landmarks to explore. Plan where to stay in the best neighborhoods in this beautiful city.
