Tourists think Villa Borghese is just another sightseeing spot, but local Romans actually love it—it’s their green backyard. With its heart-shaped layout and locals lounging, picnicking, or strolling, it’s where the Romans escape the crowds and soak in the beauty of the city. I’m sharing everything you need to check out at Villa Borghese.
People I know who are visiting always assume Villa Borghese is just another tourist spot, but they’re surprised when they find out that we Romans (myself included) actually love it. If you look at Villa Borghese on a map, you’ll notice it’s shaped like a heart—a fitting look for a park that’s cherished by locals, not just tagged on Instagram. Surrounded by the elegant Parioli and Pinciano neighborhoods, it’s like having 200 acres of green space as our personal backyard. While tourists race through on their way to somewhere else, we’re here strolling, picnicking, or just relaxing in one of Rome’s most beautiful parks. Here’s how you can join us.
The Gallery Everyone Lines Up For (And How to Actually Enjoy It)
Let’s address the obvious: yes, Galleria Borghese is spectacular. Those Bernini sculptures and Caravaggio paintings aren’t overhyped. But showing up without a plan means joining the hordes waiting outside. Smart travelers book a morning slot with a guide who can get them past the lines and explain why that Apollo and Daphne sculpture was basically the 1600s version of a viral sensation.
(We’ve got a pretty great tour that does exactly that, but honestly, just make sure you book something in advance – the gallery’s strict entry rules mean you can’t just walk up and buy a ticket).
Address: 00197 Rome
The Hidden Spots That Tourist Maps Don’t Show
The World’s Tiniest Cinema
If it’s too cold to catch one of the park’s summer outdoor screenings, I head straight to Cinema dei Piccoli. This tiny gem, officially the world’s smallest movie theater, has been around since the 1930s and feels barely bigger than a Roman apartment. I love ducking in for an afternoon showing—it’s like having my own private screening room tucked away in Villa Borghese.
The Secret Lake
Instead of braving the crowds at Trevi, I love heading to Giardino del Lago. This hidden lake in Villa Borghese has rental rowboats and an 18th-century temple perched on a tiny island—it feels like a world apart from the busy city. Most tourist maps don’t even show it, which is exactly why we Romans cherish it. For just 3 euros, you can row around the Temple of Asclepius, imagining what it must’ve felt like for Italian nobility back in the day. Late afternoon, especially after 4 PM, is my favorite time to go; the golden light on the water makes it feel like a true escape.
The Forgotten Museum
While everyone packs into the main gallery, I like to slip over to Museo Carlo Bilotti, a hidden gem in Villa Borghese. Tucked away in the park’s old orangery, this free museum holds a surprising collection of De Chirico paintings and even a Warhol—pieces you’d never know were there if you relied on most guidebooks. A fun fact: Carlo Bilotti, the museum’s namesake, was an Italian-American businessman and art collector who was friends with many of the artists featured here. The real secret, though, is the quiet garden café outside.
How to Do Villa Borghese Like a Local
The Picnic Strategy
Skip the overpriced cafes. Do like the Romans:
- Hit the market on Via Flaminia for fresh bread and cheese.
- Grab wine from the tiny enoteca near Via Pinciana.
- Find a quiet spot near the Villa Giulia.
Time It Right
- Early morning: Join the local runners and artists.
- Midday: While tourists bake in the Forum, you’re in the shade of umbrella pines.
- Sunset: The Pincio terrace gets crowded, but the paths behind Villa Borghese offer equally stunning views without the selfie sticks.
Use the Back Ways In
In addition to the main entrance at Porta Pinciana, you can also try these other entrances:
- The quiet steps up from Via Veneto.
- The secret entrance near the Bioparco.
- The back gate by Villa Giulia.
Beyond the Obvious Art
Everyone knows about Bernini at the gallery, but the park itself is full of art most visitors miss:
- The watercolor museum that used to be a henhouse.
- Contemporary sculptures hidden in the English gardens.
- The replica of Shakespeare’s Globe that hosts Italian theater.
Summer Nights Done Right
During the summer, there’s nothing better than grabbing some friends or coworkers, a picnic blanket, and a bottle of wine, and heading to Villa Borghese for the outdoor film screenings. They show everything from classic Italian films to international releases. I love settling in with some snacks. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend an evening in the park and it’s free! Check out the schedule to plan your night.
Epic Views
Everyone talks about the Pincio terrace – and yes, the view of Piazza del Popolo is stunning. But here are my favorite spots to get the perfect shot:
- The hidden terrace behind Casina Valadier – fewer selfie sticks, better sunset
- The quiet path along the back of Villa Medici – you can see St. Peter’s without the crowds
- The secret spot behind Villa Borghese’s water clock – photographers camp here at golden hour
Where to Refuel
Forget overpriced tourist cafes. Here’s where locals actually eat and drink in the park:
- Casina del Lago – A lakeside aperitivo spot where Romans linger over Aperol Spritz
- Vivi Bistrot – Organic lunch with a view of the gardens. Get the daily pasta special
- La Casina dell’Orologio – That little cafe by the water clock? It’s where art students and writers camp out all afternoon
Pro tip: The kiosks near the main paths are mediocre. The good spots are hidden – like that tiny wine bar tucked into an old gatehouse near Villa Giulia. Ask for the house white and whatever pasta they made that morning.
Getting Art Smart
If you actually want to understand what you’re looking at in Galleria Borghese (and not just pretend to), book a tour. You’ll want someone to explain why that Cardinal spent a fortune on statues of his sister turning into a tree. Trust us, it’s a better story than you think.
Most visitors leave Villa Borghese thinking they’ve seen a nice park with a famous gallery. But now you know – this isn’t just Rome’s central park. It’s where locals have been escaping tourist crowds for 400 years. They just don’t usually tell visitors how to find all their favorite spots.
How to get to Villa Borghese
Villa Borghese sits above the historic center of Rome, between Piazza del Popolo and Via Veneto. The park spans 200 acres above the Spanish Steps.
By Metro
- Line A: Flaminio or Spagna stations
- Follow signs to Villa Borghese (10-minute walk)
By Taxi or Car Service
Tell your driver:
- “Galleria Borghese” for the museum entrance
- “Hotel de Russie” for the Popolo entrance
- “Via Veneto” for the southern entrance
By Foot
Main entrances:
- From Spanish Steps: Walk up Via Sistina
- From Via Veneto: Enter through Porta Pinciana
- From Piazza del Popolo: Use the stairs to Pincio Terrace
By Bus
- Lines 61, 89, 160, 490
- Stop: Pinciana/Museo Borghese
The Galleria Borghese museum is located in the center of the park. Remember that entry requires advance reservations
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