Often called the “Brooklyn” of Rome, Pigneto is the real deal. With its natural wine bars, indie galleries, and vintage shops, this neighborhood is where the authentic Roman spirit still thrives, away from the tourist traps. I’m sharing all of my favorite spots where the drinks are cheap, the art scene is thriving, and the real Rome comes alive.
I think of Pigneto as my own Roman Brooklyn—though a lot cooler, and before everyone started labeling places as “the next Brooklyn.” This area was once strictly working-class, and now it’s where we go for the best natural wine bars, indie galleries, and vintage shops. Pigneto also has a deep connection to Italian filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini—think of him as Rome’s James Dean meets Allen Ginsberg—who lived and worked here in the 1960s, capturing the neighborhood’s gritty character in his films. When I want a good aperitivo without the tourist prices, I love heading to Pigneto, where a spritz costs half of what I’d pay near The Tour Guy’s office in the shadow of the Vatican. While tourists snap selfies at the Trevi Fountain, we’re here in Pigneto, sipping drinks in converted factories and exploring the underground art spaces that give this neighborhood its edge. In this article I’m going to share some of my favorite spots in Rome’s hippest neighborhood.
A Neighborhood That Fought Back
Before it was cool, Pigneto was gritty. During WWII, its residents were known for their fierce resistance movement. Today, that rebellious spirit lives on in street art that tells stories of both revolution and renewal. The neighborhood takes its name from the pine trees (“pino” in Italian) that once lined its streets – though these days, you’re more likely to find independent galleries and chill bars than pine cones.
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Via del Pigneto
I always start my Pigneto afternoons on the pedestrian stretch of Via del Pigneto, from Piazza del Pigneto to Via l’Aquila. This walkable stretch is the heart of the neighborhood, with its cafes, bars, and vintage shops spilling out onto the street. I love finding a spot for aperitivo, where I can sip a spritz, enjoy the bohemian vibe, and just watch people go by—it’s unbeatable for people-watching, with locals, artists, and the occasional visitor soaking up the scene. The whole area has this creative, unpolished charm that makes it one of my favorite places in Rome.
The Murals
In a city filled with Renaissance masterpieces and ancient statues, Pigneto is my go-to for a completely different kind of art. Around Via Fanfulla da Lodi, the walls are alive with murals by local and international artists—art that’s raw, real, and refreshingly modern. One of the unique things about the murals in Pigneto is how they’re constantly changing, evolving along with the neighborhood itself. You’ll find new pieces popping up all the time, as artists from around the world come to make their mark. I love wandering through here, taking in the pieces that honor Pasolini and all the other stories told in paint, without a crowd in sight.
Where to eat and drink
Necci dal 1924
One of our food tour guides, Davide, introduced me to Necci, and it’s become my favorite spot for aperitivo. I always go for their polpette di melanzane (fried eggplant balls) with a spritz and grab a seat on the terrace. The vibe is relaxed, and it’s perfect for people-watching as Pigneto’s creative crowd gathers—artists, locals, and newcomers all mixing together. It’s one of those places that feels like a neighborhood secret, even if it’s been around forever.
Address: Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 68
Enoteca il Tiaso
Il Tiaso is one of those places I always recommend—a cozy wine bar and bookstore with a welcoming, homey vibe. It’s packed with vintage records and books, making it the perfect spot to unwind with a glass of organic or biodynamic wine. Their seasonal dishes and charcuterie boards are all sourced from local producers, and they often have live jazz, adding to the relaxed, intimate atmosphere.
Address: Via Ascoli Piceno, 25
Libreria Tuba
Libreria Tuba is my go-to spot when it’s a bit too early for a drink. They’re serious about their books here—locals are always deep in conversation over espresso and pastries, with shelves full of great reads all around. I love dropping by for a coffee, and sometimes there’s a poetry reading or even a small concert happening. It’s the kind of place where I can just relax and feel at home in the neighborhood.
Address: Via del Pigneto, 39/a
Spirito
Spirito is one of my favorite hidden spots in Pigneto—a speakeasy tucked behind an unmarked door in a local sandwich shop. The cocktails here are amazing, especially the Pigneto Spritz made with locally-infused liqueurs. It’s a completely different vibe from the tourist bars, and the crowd is always a good mix of locals. I always make sure to arrive early or reserve, though—it fills up fast!
Address: Via Fanfulla da Lodi, 53
Dar Parucca
Davide introduced me to this spot, and now I’m hooked—especially on the meatballs. They’re packed with flavor, thanks to ingredients from farms just outside Rome. I usually start with the seasonal bruschetta, then go for the wild boar ragu, but the meatballs are a must every time. The staff is always happy to talk about where everything comes from, and they’re clearly proud of their local producers.
Address: Via del Pigneto, 25
Sottosopra
Anyone who thinks Romans are sticklers for tradition hasn’t been to Sottosopra. I love this place—it serves up fried pizza that’s light, crispy, and perfect to fold and eat by hand. The vibe is super relaxed, and the food is just quality, straightforward, and delicious. It’s one of my favorite spots in Pigneto when I want something great without any fuss.
Address: Via Alberto da Giussano, 64
Gelateria Artigianale Il Capriccio di Carla
Davide recommended Gelateria Artigianale Il Capriccio di Carla, telling me to order the pistachio with ricotta—and he was not wrong. This place takes gelato seriously, with flavors that are rich, creamy, and full of real ingredients. The pistachio is perfectly nutty, and the ricotta adds just the right amount of sweetness. It’s my go-to spot for a real gelato experience in Rome.
Address: Piazzale Prenestino, 30/31
Pro Tips for Looking Like You Belong
- Aperitivo is between 7-9 PM. Any earlier and you’re marking yourself as a tourist
- Skip Friday nights at Necci – that’s when the study abroad crowd discovers it
- The best street art hunting is early morning before the shops open because a lot of stuff is painted on the shutters of shops and bars
- Many places are cash only – there’s an ATM near the metro station
- If you’re gallery hopping, Thursday is opening night for most exhibitions
Most visitors leave Rome thinking they’ve seen it all after checking off the Vatican and Colosseum. But you know better now. Pigneto is where you’ll find the Rome that us Romans are trying to keep to ourselves – we just let you in on the secret.
How to get there
Pigneto is located about 3 kilometers southeast of Rome’s city center, making it a quick trip from popular spots like Termini Station. To get there, take Metro Line C to the Pigneto stop, or hop on Tram 14 or 5 from Termini for a 15-minute ride. Buses 105 and 50 also provide easy access, with stops near the neighborhood’s main attractions. Alternatively, a taxi or ride-share service offers a direct route to this lively district.
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